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Messages - Bob at PMDX

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166
SmartBOB controllers and dedicated accessories / Re: Driver disabling 422
« on: February 13, 2016, 02:43:21 AM »
thanks for the incredibly fast responses by the way! kind of unexpected
That is what sets PMDX apart from most of our competitors - we actually provide support :-)

Now settle in with a beverage of your choice.  This will be a bit long.

Quote
Jogging the machine is now intermittent. some times it will jog for a few seconds, most of the time it wont at all. I believe there is a communication problem. There is no dro movement.  previously I had great communication and movement.   
The profile package that you sent to me shows that you have every available plug-in enabled.  Disable the simulator plug-in.  You should never have the Simulator plug-in enabled at the same time you have any other motion device, such as the SmartBOB, enabled.  The simulator plug-in doesn't play well with other plug-ins when it isn't selected as *the* motion controller.  That could be the cause of some of your motion problems.  In general, disable any plug-in that you are not using.

Now optionally disable the shuttle pro plug-in unless you actually HAVE a ShuttlePro.   Also, optionally, disable the MODBUS plug-in unless you will be using it.  These two are less critical than  disabling the simulator.  They probably don't cause any issues if they are enabled but have no device to talk to.

Quote
I have done a bit more work to the machine and seem to have covered some ground and, well, lost some too. after reading the limit switch recommendations post, I wired all my switches accordingly. The original factory wiring was absurd, so I rewired all the limit switches, made sure they were all normally open, and combined their inputs on pin 11. They all share ground. The home switches are individually on pins 12, 13 15, also sharing ground with the limit switches.
OK so far.  For normally open switches they should be wired in parallel so that any one switch closing will cause the SmartBOB input to go to ground.  And you should configure the Mach4 limit inputs as active low (see description down below).  This configuration will work, but has a drawback that is a wire breaks to one of the switches, the system will never know and that limit switch will be ignored.

An alternate way to wire a group of limit switches to a single input is to use them as normally closed switches (if you can) and wire them all in series.  When any one switch opens, the SmartBOB input goes to +5V.  You configure the Mach4 limit inputs as active high.  This configuration has the advantage that if any wire in the chain of switches breaks or comes loose, Mach4 will see the limit active and halt the machine.

Quote
in mach4, they are designated as smartbob pinnouts, and assigned the proper numbers in the dropdown menu. However, the estop no longer toggles in the diagnostics window, and pins 11-15 as well as A B C show active, which they are not.
Where are you seeing pins 11-15 and A, B, C showing as active?  The profile you sent me does not map the A/B/C inputs to any Mach4 signal.  So I'm guessing that you see this on the SmartBOB Real-Time I/O Status window.  If that is the case, then those will show as green (+5V) unless something is actively pulling them to ground, like one of your limit or home switches.

Quote
Also, how does mach know which inputs are my home swithches? the limits and homes are different switches, but I don't know how to assign inputs to home. The home settings are not input assignable in the configuration menu.
You have the 5 SmartBOB inputs (Pin10, Pin11, Pin12, Pin13 and Pin15) assigned to Mach4 signals "Input #0" through "Input #4".  These Mach4 signal names do nothing except light up an LED on the Mach4 "Machine Diagnostics" tab unless you have a Lua script that reads them and does something.  For E-Stop, limit and homing switch functions you should map the SmartBOB signals as follows:

Go to the Mach4 "Configure" menu and select "Mach..".  Then click on the "Input Signals" tab.  Here are the input signal mappings you should have.  Note that you will have to scroll down a ways to find these signal names.

Mach4 Name
-----------
Motor0 Home   SmartBOBUSB   Pin12   ActiveLow*   (this is the X axis home)
Motor1 Home   SmartBOBUSB   Pin13   ActiveLow*   (this is the Y axis home)
Motor2 Home   SmartBOBUSB   Pin15   ActiveLow*   (this is the Z axis home)

Motor0 ++   SmartBOBUSB   Pin11   ActiveLoW*   (this is the X axis positive limit)
Motor0 --   SmartBOBUSB   Pin11   ActiveLoW*   (this is the X axis negative limit)
Motor1 ++   SmartBOBUSB   Pin11   ActiveLoW*   (this is the Y axis positive limit)
Motor1 --   SmartBOBUSB   Pin11   ActiveLoW*   (this is the Y axis negative limit)
Motor2 ++   SmartBOBUSB   Pin11   ActiveLoW*   (this is the Z axis positive limit)
Motor2 --   SmartBOBUSB   Pin11   ActiveLoW*   (this is the Z axis negative limit)

E-Stop      SmartBOBUSB   Pin10   ActiveHigh*

ActiveLow* means put a green check mark in the "Active Low" column.
ActiveHigh* means put a red "X" in the "Active Low" column.

NOTE: If you change your limit switch wiring to use normally closed switches wired in series, then change all of the above limit switch configuration to "ActiveHigh".


Now, one more topic: Homing.

In the "Homing/SoftLimits" tab you have the X, Y and Z axis set for "Home In Place".  That means that when you click on the "Reference All Axis" button, Mach4 will take the current position of the motors and takes that to be the home position (i.e. it doesn't move the motor or pay attention to he home switch input).  It then changes the position for that axis to be the value in the "Home Offset" column.  For example, if you have "Home In Place" enabled and the "Home Offset" is 1.0000, and the current motor position is 2.000, then clicking on the "Ref All Home" will only change the current position for that axis to 2.000.  It will not move the motor.  Since you have home switches in your system, un-check "Home In Place" for all axis.

Then go to the "Machine Diagnostics" tab and home each axis one at a time by clicking on the "RefX", "RefY" and then "RefZ" buttons.  If the axis initial motion is AWAY from the home switch, then change the "Home Dir" entry for that axis.  For example, change from "Pos" to "Neg.

These changes should get you up and running.  If not, let us know what it is or isn't doing.  Hint - check the status line in the lower left corner of the Mach4 screen, and also click on the history button next to it.  If there was an error in our plug-in you should see a message there.

Bob

167
It is possible to connect two motor drivers to any of the other Motor
outputs on the PMDX-424 but the two motors will be commanded to
run in the same direction. These outputs can supply 24 milliAmperes
which can safely drive the opto-coupler inputs of two drivers wired
in parallel.
To expand on this a bit - connecting the step/dir signals from 2 drivers to the same step/dir outputs on the PMDX-424 (or any SmartBOB) will indeed tell the drivers to move both motors in the same direction.  However, you can change the motor wiring to one of the motors to make it turn the opposite direction *if* you need that.  Simply swap the two wires from ONE phase of the motor (i.e. swap the A and A-BAR wires).

The other difference between using the 3A and 3B terminals to drive two motors and wiring 2 motors to a single step/dir output is that the 3A and 3B outputs will (eventually) be able to square the gantry during homing (i.e. run the 3A and 3B motors independently).  This is not yet supported in the firmware but is coming.

Bob

168
SmartBOB controllers and dedicated accessories / Re: Driver disabling 422
« on: February 09, 2016, 03:26:02 PM »
However, I have still not correctly set up my limit or home switches. After reading some other posts, it seems you are supposed to be able to configure things while the pmdx is plugged in. I cannot do any configuring with the 422 plugged in. Both mach and plugging are unselectable while plugged in.
In order to access the configuration dialogs, Mach4 needs to be "disabled".  That means that the button in the lower left corner of the Mach4 screen should be flashing green and say "Enable".  *THEN* you should be able to go to the Mach4 "Configure" menu and select either the "Mach..." or "Plugins..." menus.

Quote
Currently if I have any of my limit switches wired, mach won't detect the 422 at all.
This sounds like the limit switches are somehow shorting the +5V power on the PMDX-422.  Please create a wiring diagram that shows EXACTLY how you are connecting the limit switches (and EStop) to the PMDX-422.  And if your limit switches are optical interruptors or proximity sensors (or anything except mechanical switches) please include the manufacture and model number.  You can post the picture here.

Quote
The e stop does toggle in the live diagnostics screen, but it doesn't do anything. Any ideas on the issue would be aprreciated. Thanks
Go to the Mach4 "Help" menu and select "Support" and then "Create profile package".  Send the resulting profile package to me either by posting here.  Note that to post it here you will have to either change the file extension from ".m4prof" to something like ".zip", or you will need to put the profile into a ZIP file.  If you want to email it to me, send it to bob at this domain.

Bob

169
(1) For the step and direction signals, connect the PMDX-424's "COM" terminal to both the PUL- and DIR- terminals.  Connect the PMDX-424 "Step" terminal to the DM556 PUL+ and the PMDX-424 "Dir" terminal to the DM556 DIR+.

(2) Leave the ENA+ and ENA- terminals unconnected (the driver is enabled by default).

(3) Make sure the PMDX-424 is configured for "ground" as the step/dir common.  Go to the Mach4 "Configure" menu and select "Plugins...".  Then click on the "Configure" button for the PMDX-SmartBOB.  Click on the "Motor Config" tab and look in the "Step/Dir Common Configuration" section and make sure the "Step/Dir common is ground" is selected.

(4) The documentation for the Leadshine DM556 is implies that you may have to set the step polarity to "Active Low" in the SmartBOB plug-in configuration (on the same screen where you set the "step/dir common" above).

Bob

170
OK.  Don't forget the USB Panel cable and the RMA # on the outside of the box.

171
The only 4-pin screw terminal connectors that we sell are for the PMDX-340.  Are you talking about the 4-pin connector that you install on the Geckodrive unit for the motor wires?  If so, these came with the PDMX-132.  I can look around the lab and see if we still have any.  If so, we can send them back to you with your PMDX-422 board(s) when you send them in for repair.

Bob

172
I will send that info later.  I am not in the shop right now.
Thanks.  Also, can you tell me if the USB hub you tried using earlier was self-powered or USB powered?

Do you think I might get any of these errors if the PMDX-134 is bad.  Should I try to switch that out?  I have an extra.
I don't think that will make a difference, but it is worth a try.  But instead of using the other PMDX-134 I would first try with the ribbon cable between the PMDX-422 and the PMDX-134 unplugged from the PMDX-422.  If the PMDX-422 works (i.e. our plug-in can talk to it), re-connect the original PMDX-134 and confirm that it is indeed causing the problem.  If so, *then* try your other PMDX-134.

In fact, try with everything unplugged from the PMDX-422 (motor drivers, limit switches, etc.).  While I don't think this will make a difference here, it should be fairly easy to try since the PMDX-422 has pluggable terminal strips for everything.

Bob

173
Well, that is not what I was expecting.  Question: what are the serial numbers on the two PMDX-422 boards that you have?

Try this: go to our plug-in download page (http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-SmartBOB-USB-Plug-In) and download version 0.31.147.  Install that and see if you get the same (or different) error message.  Please generate another debug log and send that to me.

I suspect that you will need to send both PMDX-422 boards back for servicing.

Bob

174
I purchased the PMDX-122 as suggested I have everything wired up and I have the pins set in mach3.  The steppers are engaged, but I am not getting any movement from the jog functions in Mach3. Any further troubleshooting tips?
The most common cause of this kind of problem is having the step and direction signals swapped, with the step output from Mach3 going to the direction input on the driver, and vice versa.  If that is the case, if you try to jog an axis back and forth, you should be able to hear the motor take one step each time you from one direction to the other.  Actually, it will be one step each time you go from "plus" to "minus" direction, or from "minus" to "plus", depending on the polarities of the step/dir signals.

So... Double check the step and direction settings in Mach3 in the Configure->Ports&Pins, Motor Outputs tab, and make sure they match the actual wiring from the PMDX-122 to your motor drivers.

Bob

175
1. The PMDX-422 board I have does not work.  I actually have two, so I tried the second and now my USB not recognized issues are fixed. 
The log file you sent confirms this (not that this really needed confirming)- Windows was not seeing the device at all.  You can send that PMDX-422 to us for repair, along with the USB-HDRtoB-Panel (well, we'll replace that, but I would be curious to have it to check out here).  Ship the board & cable to the address on our contact page (http://www.pmdx.com/ContactUs).  Put somewhere on the outside of the box "RMA 01301601".

Quote
3. Trying to go into a USB hub on my laptop doesnot work. I have to go directly into the laptop. 
Interesting.  Is the USB hub "self powered" (i.e. has its own power supply) or is it "USB Powered" (draws power from the USB connection to the laptop).

Quote
So here's my remaining issues.  I re-installed the COM driver as per your instructions and I can now see it under PORTS and COMS.  I started Mach 4 and it gave me the "Update Firmware" option.  I clicked "update" and it said "call PMDX for support".  I rebooted to see if anything would change, and now under device manager the STM Virtual Port has the yellow exclamation.  I am sending you a log file now.
My first guess is that the plug-in timed out waiting for the PDMX-422 to reboot either before or after the firmware update.  If so, you should be able to recover from this.  Try this:

(1) Plug the PMDX-422 into the USB

(2) Start Mach4.

(3) If you see a message that says something about "boot loader" running and corrupt firmware, click on the OK button.  When the main Mach4 screen appears, go to the "Configure" menu and select "Plugins...".  Then click on the "Configure" button for the PMDX-SmartBOB.  The main tab has a button for "Update Device Firmware".  Click on that.  When the firmware download dialog appears, click on "Download".  If you get any errors here, please copy the text from the download window (right-click the mouse in the window and select "select all", then right-click again and select "copy").

(4) If you start Mach4 and DON'T see the above message, please create another debug log as before.  Exit Mach4 after enabling the debug log, start Mach4, then disable the debug log and create the profile.  OR, if you are computer-saavy enough, you can send just the log file.  See item (8) here http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-Forums/index.php?topic=97.0 to see where the log file is.

Bob

176
General Discussion / Re: Step Pulse Width
« on: January 29, 2016, 01:13:48 AM »
Hi Bob, yes the DRO shows 0.0000.  I tend to either pause the job part-way through or wait till it finishes, then use the Goto Work Zero button and check out whether I have a gap or not!  On finishing the complete job with Mach3, the tool was in perfect position on the material surface.  With Mach4/PMDX-422 I get half way through the job before it has moved up by approximately 4mm.
If the DRO shows that you are back at zero that means that the PMDX-422 generated every step pulse given to us by the Mach4 motion planner (i.e. it is not the plug-in or PMDX-422 that is dropping step pulses).  So it looks like the issue is somewhere between the PMDX-422's step and direction output buffers and your motor drivers.  See Steve's suggestion above about setting the pulse width to 20us.

Hmmmm....  Is the error always in the same direction?  Does the Z axis always end up higher than it should be?  Or has it ever ended up lower (further into the work piece)?

Quote
Also it has occurred to me that I haven't made certain that I'm not losing position on the other axis.  It's certainly not been obvious and as far as I can tell it's not, but I should make a mark at my work zero and check in case the problem is evident on the X and/or Y to any extent. 
Yes, that would be helpful.  Thanks.

Bob

177
I've just added an entry in our FAQ forum post on the initial steps to take when you see this error.  Go to the "FAQ - PMDX-SmartBOB Troubleshooting Tips" topic (here is a direct link: http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-Forums/index.php?topic=75.msg225#msg225).  Then look for item (5) "How to troubleshoot a "did not find a valid PMDX-SmartBOB device" error?".

If you need to generate a debug log and end us the profile package, you can either post the profile package here on the forums, or you can email it directly to me at bob at this domain.

Bob

178
*******************************************************************************
This page is obsolete and maintained here for historical purposes.
Please visit the page on the new PMDX FAQ site here:

http://faq.pmdx.com/content/3/1/en/troubleshooting-did-not-find-a-valid-pmdx_smartbob-device-errors.html

or

http://faq.pmdx.com/index.php?solution_id=1000

*******************************************************************************

So, you've got your nice new shiny PMDX-SmartBOB-USB and you can't wait to take it for a spin.   You follow the steps in the Quick Start Manual and install our plug-in.  Then you plug the SmartBOB into a USB port on your PC and fire up Mach4 and you are greeted by a couple of pop-up dialogs saying that our plug-in could not find a valid PMDX-SmartBOB device.

Bummer! What now?

Well, there are a few things you can try before contacting PMDX Support for help.

BACKGROUND: The PMDX-SmartBOB installer attempts to install a "USB Virtual COM Port" driver.  This driver is a 2nd installer package that our installer extracts and runs automatically as a background task (i.e. it is, or should be, invisible to the user).  And this virtual COM port driver installer then spawns yet another installer (yes, that's 3 levels of installers running).  That 3rd installer *is* visible.  Sometimes, for reasons that so far escape me, that 3rd installer apparently does not always install correctly.  This leaves the Virtual COM Port driver not fully functional.

***************************************************
(1) Check the "Real Easy Things" First
***************************************************
(a) Do you have any USB hubs or USB extender cables (with electronics in them) between the PC and the SmartBOB?  If you have a USB hub it *MUST* be powered from an external power supply. The SmartBOB family will not work with bus powered USB hubs.  Also, USB extender cables that have electronics in them ("signal boosters", etc.) usually act as bus powered USB hubs and will not work with the SmartBOBs.  Try connecting the SmartBOB directly to your PC.

(b) Make sure the SmartBOB is plugged into a working USB slot on your PC.  Try a different USB device in the same USB port on your PC.  Does the other device work?

(c) Try plugging the SmartBOB into a different USB port on your PC.  If you used a slot on the back of your PC, try one on the front.

(d) If you have a PMDX-424, also make sure that it has power.

(e) All SmartBOB devices except for the PMDX-411 have a "Power On" LED. Is that lit?

(f) If the device has power and if the firmware in the SmartBOB is running, the red and green LEDs will turn on in various patterns.  The normal startup sequence is that both LEDs will turn on for a short time (maybe 1 second).  Then the green LED will flicker off and back on once.  Then the red LED will remain lit, and the green LED will produce a short flash once every 2 seconds.  If you see a different flash pattern, let us know what you see.

***************************************************
(2) Look in Device Manager
***************************************************
The first thing to try is to use the Windows Device Manager to look at the list of installed devices and see if the virtual COM port is listed.  The way to get to Device Manager is different in the different versions of Windows.

WinXP: Go to the Start menu, click on "Settings" and then "Control Panel".  When the control panel is displayed, double-click on the "System" icon.  This will display the "System Properties" window.  Click on the "Hardware" tab and then the "Device Manager" button.

Win7: Go to the Start menu and select "Control Panel" (usually on the right-hand side of the start menu area).  If you see approximately 8 groups of topics, then click on "Hardware and Sound", then under the "Devices and Printers" section click on "Device Manager".  If instead of 8 groups you see lots and lots of icons, look for the icon named "Device Manager" and click on it.   Note that the icons are not always in strict alphabetical order.

Win8.1: If using a touch screen, swipe in from the right edge of the screen, and then tap Search.  If you're using a mouse, point to the lower-right corner of the screen, move the mouse pointer up, and then click Search.  Then in the search box enter "device manager" (without the quotes).  Then click on Device Manager in the results.  (see http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-8/where-is-device-manager)

Win10: Enter the words "Device Manager" (without the quotes) into the search box on the taskbar, then select Device Manager from the list of results. (see http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-10/open-device-manager)

Once you have the Device Manager window open, look for a line that says "Ports (COM & LPT)".  Click on the small plus sign next to that to expand this category.  You should see a line that says "STMicroelectronics Virtual COM Port", and there should NOT be a yellow question mark next to it.  This usually means that both parts of the Virtual COM Port driver installed correctly.  See the first image below for an example.  If you see this, this go to step (3) below.

If you do not see the "STMicroelectronics Virtual COM Port" line, look just above the "Ports (COM & LPT)" line for "Other Devices".  Click on the small plus sign to expand that category.  If you see a line that says "STM32 Virtual COM Port in FS Mode", then the Virtual COM Port driver did not fully install.  See the second image below for an example.  If you see this, go to step (2)

If you do not see either of these, or you see a device with a yellow question mark next to it, that means the Virtual COM Port driver is either not installed of not functioning.  Or it means that the SmartBOB device is not working.  In this case, follow he steps below to see if the problem is with the driver.

***************************************************
(3) Uninstall and re-install the driver
***************************************************
You will need to know if you have a 32-bit or 64-bit version of Windows.  If you don't know this, open the control panel as described above. If you see approx 8 groups of topics, then click on "System and Security", and then click on the sub-heading "System".  If instead of 8 groups you see lots and lots of icons, look for the icon named "System" and click on it.  Somewhere in the System Properties window it will show you whether it is a 32-bit or 64-bit version.  Note that for Windows XP, it will either say "64-bit" or nothing.  If it doesn't mention "64-bit" then you are running the 32-bit version.

Go here (http://www.pmdx.com/Downloads_Utilities/) and download either "VCP_V1.3.1_Setup.exe" for 32-bit systems, or "VCP_V1.3.1_Setup_x64.exe" for 64-bit systems.  Save the file somewhere that you can find it.

**IMPORTANT** Unplug the SmartBOB from the USB port before continuing.

Run this installer.  If it gives you a choice of "Modify", "Repair" or "Remove", select "Remove".  If you do not see these choices, then the driver is not installed at all and the installer will install it.  If you select "Remove", then once the installer has finished, run it a second time.  This will (or should) install the driver.

IMPORTANT!!!  The installer will bring up a 2nd installer during the install process.  DO NOT click on any buttons in the first installer window until the 2nd installer has finished and closed its window.  When the 2nd installer window appears, click on any "OK" or "Continue" buttons until it finishes.

Once the 2nd installer has finished AND closed its window, allow the 1st installer to finish.

Plug the SmartBOB into a USB port, open the Device Manager and see if the entry appears in the "Ports (COM & LPT)" category.  If not, contact PMDX support.  If so, try running Mach4 and see if the plug-in can talk to the SmartBOB.  If it can, have fun running your machine!  If not, proceed to step (3).

***************************************************
(4) Generate a SmartBOB plug-in debug log
***************************************************
If the Virtual COM Port driver shows up in Device Manager but you still see the "cannot find a valid SmartBOB device" error, then generate a debug log and send that to us.  The general steps to do this are listed here:
http://www.pmdx.com/PMDX-Forums/index.php?topic=97.0

You will need to start Mach4, then click on "OK" to clear the error messages.  Once at the main Mach4 window, enable the debug log as described in the link above.  Exit Mach4, then re-start Mach4.  Then disable the debug log as described in the link above.  And finally, create a "profile package" as described in the link above, then exit Mach4.  Send the profile packet to PMDX support.

[modified 6 Aug 2016 to add "check the easy things" section]

179
General Discussion / Re: Step Pulse Width
« on: January 28, 2016, 06:32:51 PM »
While I ponder what else could be going on - when the Z axis is not at the physical position that it should be, does the DRO on the Mach4 screen show what the position *should* be?  For example, if after running a GCode file, move the Z axis back to zero.  Does the DRO read 0.0000?  Or does it read something slightly different?

180
General Discussion / Re: Step Pulse Width
« on: January 25, 2016, 12:00:14 PM »
Quote
You also should have jumper JP3 on the PMDX-422 set for "GND" for the step/dir common voltage, and the step polarity should be "positive".
however when I switch J3 to ground, none of my motors move.  I previously had it set to high which has been working so far.  Could you clarify this?
I was presuming a few things:
- that you have the "CP-" and "CW-" terminals  connected to the "COM" terminals on the PMDX-422
- that when the data sheet says "rising edge effective" that it means when the "CP+" voltage goes
   positive with respect to the "CP-" terminal.
- and that "rising edge duration" really means "pulse duration" or "duration of CP+ voltage positive with respect to CP-"

If you have the PMDX-422 JP3 set to "+5V" as the common voltage, and *IF* you have CP- and CW- wired to the COM terminals on the PMDX-422, then the CP+ and CW+ terminals can *never* have a voltage higher then CP-/CW-.  The CP+/CW+ terminals will either be at +5V (same as COM) or 0V (minus 5V with respect to COM).  And indeed, this will cause no motion from the stepper driver.

On the other hand, **IF** you have CP+ and CW+ connected to the COM terminal and CP-/CW- connected to the Pin2/Pin3 (for example) terminals, and **IF** you have the step polarity in our plug-in configured for "positive" (oops, we actually call that "Active High"), that effectively inverts the step pulse.  What you then get is a very wide "active" portion with the in-active portion being 5us or 10us (whichever you have selected as the step pulse width).  It is possible that this "in-active" duration is not sufficient for the CW8060.

As you can see, this starts getting very confusing because how your signals are connected to the PMDX-422 affect the meaning of "pulse width" and "step polarity" in ways that our plug-in cannot detect.

I presume from the fact that things stopped working when you set JP3 to GND that you have the CP+/CW+ connected to the COM terminals.  Is that correct?  If so, then return JP3 to "+5V", and configure the PMDX-422 step polarity to "Active Low" and step pulse width to 10us.

If not, please tell me exactly how you have the CW8060 connected to the PMDX-422.

Bob

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